24 Jan 2012

An end to the fooling around

This post was written by Joseph Guthrie

The Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition is now off and running. If you’ve been following it from my blog this might come as a surprise. My apologies. The last few months are a blur of activity and frantic preparation, where we had no time to properly prepare ourselves, much less fill in the background through our blogging.

We made it to the start by working insane hours, working the phone and email around through all hours of the night. The two and a half weeks between the holidays and the start of the Expedition Carlton and Elam and I all suffered from intense sleep deprivation as we hurried between meetings and our computers, buying gear, talking to our collaborators, organizing our equipment. We shopped for a trailer that could carry our kayaks, bikes, paddleboards, camera equipment. We researched specific properties, specific wildlife species and conservation issues we wanted to highlight. Before we could get into any depth we would be distracted by another more immediate concern. The dry bags for stowing gear on our kayaks were out of stock. The wireless service provider for our portable wi-fi hotspots wanted a contract that we were not willing to pay for. We had two phone interviews and a conference call all going on at the same time. The rudder kits for our kayaks, which we naively thought we’d assemble ourselves, were far too involved and we needed them fixed by a pro. It seemed like one million adapter wires and batteries and connectors flooded the dining room table of Carlton’s house. Details, details, details…it was chaos.

The packing and organizing continued up to the moments before we launched our boats from the beach. Elam, the organized one, had pulled all nighters loading his gear into his vehicle at his home in Blountstown on Friday night. He arrived on Saturday in Tampa. Once the inside of the trailer was finished on Saturday night, Elam’s gear was ready to go in. He and our trailer driver Rick Smith retired to a hotel for well-earned sleep. Carlton stayed up all night Saturday packing his camera equipment and doing last minute stashing and captioning of photos from our route scouting for distribution later. I, the least equipment-laden of our team, managed two hours of sleep.

And then it was Sunday, the day of our departure for Everglades National Park and the start of our trip. By Monday evening we were camping beside Florida Bay. Brown pelicans sailed overhead as we took our spanking new kayaks out for their maiden voyage, a 15 minute spin. Mallory, the most experienced paddler of the group, provided instructions. We still had not rigged the kayak solar panels that we wanted to power our devices while we were out in the wilderness for seven days. We still had not loaded reliable satellite imagery into our GPS for our navigation. The press was mingling in our group. Important people would be arriving in hours to see us off. How would we be able to do this with so little practical preparation?

Somehow we pulled it off. Carlton and I were both awake that last night until 5 a.m. Once the sun was us up there was no more chance to fool around with the phone or the computer. We had to load the boats and go. Packing took until 2:30 in the afternoon, nearly two hours later than we’d intended, but we finally shoved off into the Bay. A flock of willet milled in the shallows just down the beach. The weather forecast was perfect. As I pulled through the first paddle stroke I felt relief begin to work through my system. Now we had to just go do the thing.

Pictures:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/75103055@N03/sets/72157629016855501/

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23 Jan 2012

Day 5 – Entering the Sawgrass

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

An update from the team: “We are in the sawgrass in the middle of our route through the Everglades. We are on schedule and food is holding up well. At night the insects drive us into our tents, and we end up sleeping for 8 or more hours, a nice departure from the weeks of no sleep we had leading up to the start of the expedition. Poor cell service makes blogging difficult, but the signal seems to be improving, so bear with us. The scenery is unreal. Poling a kayak through the sawgrass is a true Everglades experience.”

A view from the kayak as the team crosses the heart of the Everglades…

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Stopping to have lunch in the sawgrass.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Joe adjusts his gear, preparing to make the trek across the open sawgrass.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Sunrise over the Sawgrass Prairie…

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Day 4 – Shark River

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

Paddling along the upper headwaters of the Shark River on Friday, January 20.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Carlton loads his kayak from the dock at the Canepatch campsite in Everglades National Park.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

21 Jan 2012

Expedition Day 2

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

The sun rises at the camp at South Joe River Chickee in Everglades National Park. Today will be the team’s first full day in the Everglades.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

The Expedition Begins!

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

View from the kayak…

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Leaving the marina at Flamingo, the team paddles up Buttonwood Canal toward Coot Bay.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

The team paddles into Florida Bay.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Expedition Launch Events

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

Carlton and Superintendent Kimball send a live update of the launch to The Everglades Foundation Water Supply Summit in Tallahassee on Tuesday. The Tallahassee audience included Florida Commissioner of Agriculture Adam Putnam, Florida Governor Rick Scott and Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

The expedition team presents a limited edition Florida Wildlife Corridor map to Everglades National Park Superintendent, Dan Kimball.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Joe Guthrie, Superintendent Dan Kimball, Elam Stoltzfus, Mallory Lykes Dimmitt and Carlton Ward Jr.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Carlton is interviewed by Miami’s CBS news channel 4.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

The team prepares their kayaks at the edge of Florida Bay.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

20 Jan 2012

Dawn of Expedition Day 1

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

The sun rises over Florida Bay in Everglades National Park.

A fisherman looks out over Florida Bay at the edge of the Flamingo campground.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

A glimpse of the wildlife at the Flamingo campground in Everglades National Park at the dawn of expedition day one.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition Preparations

This post was written by Carlton Ward Jr

Carlton and Joe begin to unload the kayaks from the expedition trailer.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

The expedition support trailer sits at the edge of Florida Bay.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

Carlton does some last minute wiring of equipment at the Flamingo campground on Monday night.

Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition

27 Nov 2011

Ocala to Okefenokee

This post was written by Joseph Guthrie

This week marked a step closer to the beginning of the Florida Wildlife Corridor Expedition. Now less than two months from the start, we are feeling the pressure mount. So we embraced the opportunity to engage with our route in a more tangible way, after months of strategizing, meeting, planning. And while flying the Florida Wildlife Corridor from 1000 ft at 170 mph isn’t exactly putting boots on the ground, it was much more engaging than sending emails and staring at satellite images for hours. With the help of LightHawk, a volunteer-based environmental aviation organization that donates flight time to conservation groups that seek an aerial perspective, we flew the route from State Route 192 in Osceola County to Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, which overlaps the Florida/Georgia border north of Lake City, Florida. This represents the northern half of our planned route (see route map), including a 100 mile stretch of the St. Johns River.

The planned route of the Florida Wildlife Corridor (red line), from the Everglades to Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge in Georgia.

Our flights began on Monday near Silver Springs, Florida, west of the Ocala National Forest. We met our pilot where he lived, in an airpark, which we found fascinating as a living arrangement. Named Leeward Air Ranch, this was a community populated entirely by pilots and their families. Every home had a hangar, inside of which were assorted aircraft from helicopters to float planes and glider craft, to the Cessna 210 we flew. The signage around the neighborhood was amusing, alternating between the frightening – transient aircraft? – and the absurd “Give way to aircraft by pulling off the road.” Neighbors walking their dogs stepped aside and waved as we taxied past their driveways. No landscaping was within 30 feet of a road, to avoid interfering with taxi-ing aircraft. The foot tall stop signs were, as Carlton sometimes says, only suggestions.


We flew on three consecutive days. Tuesday morning we got aloft before the sun broke over the eastern horizon, and I snapped pictures of Carlton from the backseat of our plane. The fog was heavy in places, low to the ground. The sun came up, sending a blaze of light through the cabin of the plane. When a nice scene presented itself we threw open the window, sending a shuttering blast of air into the cabin. We held our cameras out the open window, taking bursts of photographs shot straight down at the tree-tops, or “spray and pray,” another phrase you hear around Carlton.

Carlton scans the landscape south of Lake George at sunrise.

The trees sent long shadows across the blanket of fog, giving the land a nice cross-hatching pattern. In places the cypress domes protruded from the fog, islands of green, red and brown. The plane carried four of us, including the pilot and his wife, herself a pilot. As we flew we talked about the land, noticing things we’d have never seen from Google Earth. Here and there we found flooded sections of timber. In other places we saw where the forests are narrowed by roads, or a housing development, or lakes. We saw what the understory of industrial pinelands looks like.

We marveled at the size of Ocala National Forest and Okefenokee National Wildlife Refuge, a place so immense and remote that for 10 or 15 minutes on Tuesday afternoon we were unsure where we were as we flew above it. There were no roads or logging trails for miles, almost nothing identifiable as a landmark across vast expanses of swamp and forest. Even from the perspective of our plane it was an intimidating landscape, as a wilderness is supposed to be.

In the next month we will do this again for the Everglades watershed portion of our route. The LightHawk pilot was excellent, demonstrating his patience as we had him fly multiple orbits around our landmarks and points of interest. I can only hope the next one will be as easy and as safe to work with.

21 Oct 2011

Meeting the Secretary

This post was written by Joseph Guthrie

Yesterday Carlton, Elam and I spent about 20 minutes meeting with U.S. Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar at Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge on near Vero Beach in Florida. Generally speaking I’m not the most starstruck person, but I was floored by Mr. Salazar. He answered Elam’s questions regarding the Northern Everglades National Wildlife Refuge in a way that demonstrated his interest in seeing the project go through. Mr. Salazar is a rancher himself, and so seems to identify with the concerns of the multi-generational ranchers living in the Kissimmee River Basin. He spoke at length about the National Wildlife Refuge system, of which Pelican Island was the first installment, and the responsibility he feels to hunters and anglers who use public conservation land, powering a $1 billion/year industry.

Secretary of the Interior Ken Salazar is interviewed by filmmaker Elam Stoltzfus while visiting Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge in Florida.

Afterwards he was warm and receptive as Carlton and I presented him with our map for the the Florida Wildlife Corridor. He actually made us all calm down as we were feeling rushed by his ever-present aides and security personnel, saying at one point “No, no, it’s fine, let’s take our time, it will be fine.” Then he made us interview Dan Ashe, the recently appointed head the US Fish and Wildlife Service. I showed both Secretary Salazar and Director Ashe maps of the Florida Ecological Greenways Network and the M34 data that the bear team from the University of Kentucky collected in 2010.

Director of USFWS Dan Ashe walks with me as I show him a map of Florida’s wildlife corridors as identified by Tom Hoctor and others.



Later we went to lunch with the staff of Pelican Island NWR. Many of these folks I know from having cooperated with them while I was doing field work in Highlands County. Over lunch they seemed to be able to relax after a long couple of days preparing their refuge headquarters for the Secretary’s visit. Our discussions ranged all over the place, and it became one of those lunches that lasted 2+ hours. As we drove back to Miami I marveled at our good luck at having the opportunity to spend time and learn from both the people at the top of the food chain and from the good worker bees of Interior, those who are getting dirty doing conservation work on a daily basis.

L-R: Rick Smith, Elam Stoltzfus and Charlie Pelizza of USFWS talk at Pelican Island National Wildlife Refuge in Vero Beach, Florida.